Rome’s hidden layers revealed

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Ancient emperors, baroque artists and, of course, the pope -- whatever you're after, Rome has something to offer. This city is an onion: Beneath every layer, there are 50 more to discover.

Especially when it comes to archaeology. While crowds clog the Colosseum and Roman Forum, there are countless sites that are equally atmospheric but a whole lot less peopled. The Terme di Caracalla is a vast bathing complex, where Romans used to hit the sauna and pools, work out, and read in the still-visible library. The scale of the site is jaw-dropping, as are the mosaics left in situ. The best thing? It's located just off the standard city map -- meaning you'll typically only see a handful of visitors.

Other layers to explore: the semiprivate sites with limited opening times -- like the Scatola Archeologica, or "archaeological box," at the foot of the Aventine Hill, where a Roman villa lies beneath a modern apartment complex. Don't forget the lesser-visited, regular sites -- like the Domus Aurea (the emperor Nero's villa), and the Domus Romane (Roman houses) below Palazzo Valentini, which come to life with a sound and light show.

You won't skip the Vatican, of course -- but go early. Tour groups are banned before 8:30 a.m. at St. Peter's Basilica, so go at 7 a.m. -- then buy the "breakfast at the museums" ticket for the Vatican Museums (including the Sistine Chapel), which gets you in at 7:45 a.m., before the official opening time of 8:30 a.m. You'll get breakfast in the famous Pigna courtyard and then can start your visit before everyone else arrives.

Beside every tourist hotspot is a lesser-known jewel. Beneath the Spanish Steps is the Keats-Shelley House, dedicated to the Romantic poets who loved Italy. At the top of Via Veneto, you can walk on top of the ancient Aurelian Walls. And in touristy Trastevere, don't miss Villa Farnesina, a palace frescoed by the likes of Raphael.

Most important of all? Don't rush it. That onion takes a while to peel.

October in Rome is so glorious -- sunny, warm, but no longer humid -- that there's a name for it: ottobrata romana. Spring can be lovely, and don't dismiss winter -- if it's not raining, you can enjoy the city with fewer crowds and cheaper hotel rates. For Christians, Christmas and Easter are the times to go, as the pope addresses the crowds in St. Peter's Square.

"The city center is pretty expensive, so I'd always suggest staying in Esquilino -- it's right by the center and has gorgeous things to see: the Museo Nazionale Romano, and the churches of Santa Bibiana, San Pietro in Vincoli (with Michelangelo's 'Moses') and Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, which has an archaeological area attached. Nearby is San Lorenzo -- an area of bars and restaurants that's really popular with students."

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Part of the Alda Fendi Foundation -- a building housing a gallery and apartments, founded by the fashion scion -- these digs were designed by starchitect Jean Nouvel, who pairs original elements (tiles, graffitied walls) with hypermodern touches, such as stainless steel box-bathrooms. It's a 15-minute walk from the city center, next to the Bocca della Verità (Mouth of Truth), which took center stage in "Roman Holiday."

Courtesy Armando al Pantheon

Rome's fierce sauce is paired with rigatoni by chefs Claudio and Fabrizio Gargioli, of Rome's Armando al Pantheon. Stanley Tucci visited the restaurant in an episode of the CNN Original program "Searching for Italy." Here's how to taste Rome at home. Buon appetito!