Is this Italy’s most misunderstood city?

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Forget everything you've heard about Venice -- it's probably false.

Do the canals stink? Rarely. Is it always flooded? Hardly, thanks to the MOSE flood barrier, which came into force in October 2020. Is it too busy to enjoy? Absolutely not.

See? The Venice naysayers are the Venice know-nothings. Of course, if you do what most tourists do -- come for the day, walk the same streets as everyone else to the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark's Square, then cram onto the vaporetto (water bus) -- it can be unbearably crowded. But let's call that fair punishment for those who devote just one day to this unique city.

Of course, St. Mark's is knockout beautiful, but these days, the real Venice isn't in the square so grand that Napoleon called it "the living room of Europe." Nor is the real Venice on the Rialto, now surrounded by touristy shops and restaurants. That's no bad thing -- because it's everywhere else.

Just one block off the main drag that leads from the train station to St. Mark's via Rialto, you'll find artisans practicing centuries-old trades, marble-frilled churches where the altarpieces are by Titian and Tintoretto, and bars serving tramezzini (Venetian overstuffed sandwiches) and ombre (mini glasses of wine), where the Venetian dialect reigns supreme. 

To see the real Venice takes time. Take Burano, for example. The island in the north lagoon is Instagram-famous for its colorful houses, so people snap some pictures and leave. Stay longer, though, and you'll get a feel for what's the longest-standing community in the lagoon -- it's been a fishing island since Roman times. Spend time on neighboring Torcello once the crowds have gone home, and you'll understand island life.

Most Venice visitors skip the museums and smaller churches, meaning they're all yours. The Fondazione Querini Stampalia has an incredible gallery, plus a modern wing by architect Carlo Scarpa. A Chorus Pass gets you into 17 of Venice's most spectacular churches for under $15 -- Santa Maria dei Miracoli, Sant'Alvise and San Sebastiano are unmissable.

Wherever you go, try to support local businesses. One way is to visit artisans, who are struggling to compete with cheap souvenir shops. Don't miss Paolo Olbi, who creates stationery with Venetian motifs in the Dorsoduro district, or glassblower Stefano Morasso on Giudecca island -- his work is modern, unique and less costly than the fancy factories on Murano. Once you see the real Venice, you'll never want to leave.

Spring and fall are best, but busy. Avoid sweltering summer but if you're into atmosphere, winter -- with its swirling mists, biting cold and sometimes-flooded St. Mark's Square -- can be wildly romantic. The Venice Film Festival takes place on the Lido every September, while the Biennale art exhibition restarts in 2022, running April through November.

"It seems stupid, but give yourself enough time -- you need at least four nights. Venice is a slow city -- you travel on foot so to visit her properly you need to adapt your speed to that of the city. Take the vaporetto to the island of San Giorgio Maggiore -- you can see St. Mark's Square from across the water, with nobody around. The Giorgio Cini Foundation, a cultural center, is based there -- you can visit the 16th-century monastery, plus an outdoor labyrinth and the Vatican Chapels -- 10 modern, meditative chapels, designed for a past architecture Biennale, in a forested park at the back."

Yudai Ibusuki/Adobe Stock

For a truly out-of-the-way stay, spend a couple of nights in this Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms on the island of Mazzorbo, next to Burano. It overlooks the vineyard where the Bisol family produce wine from the ancient Dorona grape, once beloved by Venetian aristocracy. You'll enjoy the peaceful north lagoon after the crowds have gone home.

Will Lanzoni/CNN

Baccalà, or salt cod, is a staple in Venice, often in the shape of this pâté, which is creamed with olive oil and served on blocks of polenta or toasted bread. Here's Stanley Tucci's version, from "The Tucci Cookbook."