Saturday, February 1, 2025 |
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From the rise of organic wine to a bold rethink of ultra-processed foods, this week's stories explore how what we eat – and drink – is evolving.
Rosamund Hall considers whether organic wine is a fad or the future of an industry in trouble. Wine sales are slumping, yet organic bottles are thriving, with drinkers drawn to sustainability and a cleaner approach to winemaking. So, is it worth it? Hall's picks – like a peachy Viognier and a robust Monastrell – suggest yes. Drink less, but better. People seem to be listening.
Leo Campbell, co-founder of Modern Baker, is taking on ultra-processed foods (UPFs), arguing that the debate – ban them or do nothing – is outdated. Instead, he's proving they can be reinvented, with his Superloaf, a nutrient-packed, fibre-rich white bread, now in over 1,000 supermarkets. Whether the government will back real innovation or cling to tired policies is another question.
Sorted Food want to end the myth that vegan cooking means endless prep and bland results. Their latest recipes for our Budget Bites column are plant-based, full of flavour and ready in 30 minutes. Creamy tomato pasta gets its richness from blitzed cannellini beans, salt-and-pepper tofu is paired with an indulgent avocado dressing, and a cauliflower curry – yes, with crisps – proves that fast and plant-based doesn't have to mean dull. A streamlined shopping list and no faff make these the kind of weeknight dinners that don't feel like a compromise.
Sebby Holmes, of Farang London, proves that Thai flavours belong on the barbecue just as much as the usual suspects. Blistered tomato and lime salad picks up a deep smokiness over hot coals, while corn on the cob, coated in kaffir lime, coconut oil and enough chilli to keep things interesting, is the kind of dish that makes meat feel unnecessary. Two recipes, minimal effort, big payoff.
For Amy Poon, Chinese New Year is all about family, tradition and, of course, food. For the festivities, she suggests a simple Prosperity Salad, tossed high for good fortune, and nian gao, a sticky rice cake symbolising a better year ahead. For those up for a challenge, her father's Eight Treasure Duck is a labour of love but worth every bite. If time is short, her vegetarian dan dan noodles and pork potstickers are a good place to start.
Maya Oppenheim's obsession with Sichuan food has shaped how she eats in London, and for Lunar New Year, she's sharing her favourite spots. There's My Old Place, a no-frills haven for cumin-drenched lamb skewers and fiery dry-fried green beans; Dad Grilled Skewers – where you cook your own food on a tableside barbecue – is chaotic in the best way; and Uyghur spot Etles in Walthamstow serves home-style dishes that make you forget you're not actually in someone's kitchen.
Nadiya Hussain is bracing for the backlash over Rooza, her new book on Ramadan. But, as she puts it, "Do I care? No." The Bake Off winner has built a career on cooking from the heart, and this is no different – 30 meals from 30 countries where Ramadan is observed, designed for both fasting and feasting. Alongside the book, she shares three favourites: syrup-drenched samsas, a peanut and vegetable curry inspired by her Thai roots, and Kabuli pulao, an Afghan-style lamb and rice dish. Food designed for sharing, which, for Hussain, is exactly the point.
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Amy Poon on the joy of Chinese New Year – and why nostalgia never tasted so good |
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For Amy Poon, Chinese New Year is a time for family, tradition and food that carries generations of meaning. The restaurateur chats to Hannah Twiggs about reviving her family's legendary culinary legacy and shares her advice for celebrating with style – from tossing a Prosperity Salad to frying up nian gao |
When it comes to celebrating Chinese New Year, Amy Poon believes that food is not just at the heart of the festivities – it's the thread that ties generations together. "Reunion dinner on CNY's Eve is really the main event for us. Before we eat, we pay our respects to our ancestors with offerings of food, wine and lit joss sticks," she explains. Ancestral worship, or showing respect for one's parents and elders, is one of the most influential elements of Chinese culture. For Poon, Chinese New Year is a time for family, tradition and the delicious dishes that embody both.
Poon, who revived her family's iconic culinary brand in 2018, is no stranger to weaving heritage and modernity. As the daughter of Bill and Cecilia Poon, founders of Poon's of Covent Garden – the world's first Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant – she grew up immersed in the rituals and recipes that define Chinese cuisine. Now at the helm of Poon's London, she's channelling that legacy into a thriving brand, offering everything from signature sauces to freshly made wontons at her new Spa Terminus location in Bermondsey. Yet, when it comes to Chinese New Year, Poon's focus is firmly on celebrating the old traditions while finding ways to share them with new audiences.
"I don't have much of a sweet tooth, but I very much have a soft spot for nian gao, Chinese New Year cake. This is a pudding made of glutinous rice flour, steamed, sliced and pan-fried with an egg wash," says Poon. The significance of this dish lies in its name: nian gao is a homonym for "a higher year", symbolising a wish for each year to be better than the last.
Another favourite is steamed fish, a dish steeped in meaning. "The Chinese word for fish, jyu, sounds like 'surplus', so a whole fish is always served at Chinese New Year dinners with the intention of wishing everyone more than they need, year on year."
Perhaps the most intricate dish she highlights is "Eight Treasure Duck", a family speciality prepared by her father. "If there were an endangered dishes list, this would be on it! 'Eight Treasures' is the giveaway; they aren't limited to eight specific ingredients, and there are many 'Eight Treasure' dishes. For this, my father debones a duck, fries it, stuffs it with a mixture of glutinous rice, diced Chinese mushrooms, lotus seeds, Poon's wind-dried sausage, chestnuts, dried shrimps, Jinhua ham and barley, then braises it gently till tender." It's a laborious process, but the result is a show-stopping centrepiece.
Read the full article and get the recipes here |
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| During the sacred month of Ramadhan, the long hours of fasting endow every meal with profound significance. As families gather to break their fast, each meal transforms into a cherished event, a moment to savour beloved dishes, honour traditional and heritage recipes, or perhaps even venture into trying something new. Rooza is Nadiya Hussain's heartfelt culinary tribute to Ramadhan. |
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