Border problems rumble on

Six months ago, I was looking forward to this moment: being able to tell you that, as of Friday 10 April 2026, the EU entry-exit system is in full operation across all Schengen area frontiers, from Canary Island airports to the Norwegian border with Russia in the Arctic. I wanted to write that 100 per cent of third-country nationals, including the British, are being processed in accordance with “the most modern digital border management system in the world”.

Let me remind you what is supposed to happen. You arrive at a foreign airport or ferry port. You find an array of kiosks lined up to process arriving travellers. You submit your passport as requested. The system will know whether or not you have been registered on the database. If you haven’t, you will be asked to give fingerprints from your right hand and provide a facial biometric. If you have previously registered, the system will know and ask only for one biometric (probably the face). You then proceed to a human border official or, perhaps, an eGate, and go through.

Since the stuttering start I witnessed at Prague airport on 12 October 2025, it has been a bit of an EES lottery: will they want my fingerprints and facial biometric, or won’t they? I wanted to say all that is at an end. And, with the passport pages of many frequent travellers filling alarmingly fast with European entry and exit stamps, “wet stamping” has ended as planned.

Instead, on the day the EES is supposed to be working for everyone everywhere, the system is in disarray. Some nations in the Schengen area are scrupulously processing UK and other third-country nationals in accordance with the rules laid down by Brussels. Member states have typically installed ranks of EES kiosks – equipped to take facial biometrics and fingerprints – at each frontier. But in some countries – notably France, the most popular country in the world for overseas visitors – they are far from ready. At the three UK locations where frontier formalities are “juxtaposed” – with French Police aux Frontières conducting checks on British soil – ranks of kiosks are standing forlorn and unused. The percentage of travellers using these expensive machines at the Eurotunnel LeShuttle terminal at Folkestone, the Port of Dover and the Eurostar hub at London St Pancras International isn’t 100 per cent. It’s zero, because of connectivity problems on the French side. Instead, your passport details will be skimmed by an officer – EES minus, if you like.

Elsewhere, I am hearing from many travellers that they have provided the required facial biometric and fingerprints, typically on their way into a Schengen area country, but then have to provide both once again – either on the way out, on a subsequent entry, or both. I call this “EES plus”. There is a third category: “What EES?” In this case, passports will continue to be stamped as now. This fiasco is set to continue through the summer for 150 more days, to Monday 7 September – handily, at the end of the main summer holidays. Until then, all you can do is obey the local instructions. Good luck, everyone.

Simon’s must reads

Get inspired

The Vietnamese alternative to Phuket 

Siobhan Grogan discovers the temples and beaches of this lesser-known South East Asian destination. Read more.

A slow-paced Gaudí city break in Barcelona 

As Barcelona hits a major Sagrada Família milestone, Amelia Neath traces the footsteps of Antoni Gaudí. Read more.

The best cheap hotels in Copenhagen 

This Scandinavian city has a reputation for being pricy, but it can be explored for less. Read more.

Take out an Independent Premium subscription and get a travel bonus, joining the elite whose questions go straight to the top of my in-tray and get answered each week in our special Premium Ask Me Anything newsletter.

Join now with our introductory offer: just £1 for 6 months

THE DISPATCH

The appeal of Europe beyond the EU

“Welcome to Kosovo,” the frontier guard smiled as she handed back the passport. The transaction took 15 seconds. I had just touched down in the capital, Pristina, after a cheap and cheerful Wizz Air flight. Ibrahim from Birmingham, whom I had met in the queue at gate 23 at Luton Airport, was a short way behind. We had agreed to share a taxi into town. But he emerged with a friend he had made during the flight, who was in turn being met by a pal with a car – and would I like a lift? Twenty minutes later, I was at the splendid City Inn, which offered a novel approach to guest entertainment: “Predict the score of the PSG v Liverpool match and win a glass of wine.” You don’t get that at Premier Inn.

For the past few days, I have been travelling through “Europe Beyond” – the few remaining Balkan states that are not (yet) part of the European Union. The time I spend in Kosovo and Albania does not count towards the 90-day limit in any 180 days spent in the EU, which the UK happily signed up for after Brexit. Nor will I experience the current Schengen border lottery.

Spring is an ideal time to be on the road in south-east Europe. Snow still haunts the higher mountain ranges that divide the region more effectively than any borders humans could conceive. Tucked into the folds of a shady valley among the foothills close to the Kosovo–Albania border, the Decani Monastery is a gallery of religious art at its 14th-century peak. Oddly, I shared this astonishing Orthodox masterpiece with a handful of Italian troops and Polish police. Both cohorts have been deployed to protect one of the world’s wonders: a Serbian monument in Kosovan territory. Cross-border tension runs deep.

TRAVEL BEST BUYS

If there’s one thing I’ve learnt on my travels, it’s that the right gear makes all the difference. You can never be too prepared – often, it’s the small additions that make a trip far more comfortable.

In hot destinations, staying cool is essential. Breathable linen clothing, plenty of water, and a handheld fan can make a big difference. A compact option like this £12 fan from John Lewis is easy to pack, and reliable in high heat. Sunglasses are another must-have, protecting your eyes from UV rays while adding a touch of style. Ray-Bans are always a popular choice, and there are currently discounts of up to 50% available. For rest on the go, a Bluetooth eye mask, like this £18 option at Amazon, lets you relax with music or podcasts.

If your plans include more active days – whether it’s long walks, sightseeing, or countryside hikes – comfortable footwear and good-quality socks are essential for keeping you going without discomfort.

And finally, a good book is the perfect travel companion. For fiction, Antarctica by Claire Keegan is a gripping collection of short stories. For non-fiction, The Great British Bucket List offers great inspiration for local adventures, while Lonely Planet’s Cruise Handbook is ideal for cruise lovers.

INSIDER TIPS

Changing your mind about flight bookings

Travel vendors are generally unforgiving when it comes to online booking errors. If you book through an online travel agent, any subsequent changes are likely to be extremely expensive once you click to pay. Even when booking direct with an airline, the default is that you get no leeway to change or cancel your booking free of charge.

But there are exceptions. If you book a British Airways flight direct, you can cancel for a full refund within 24 hours of purchase – call BA, don’t cancel online. This concession also offers the chance to save money; sometimes fares fall overnight. If that happens and you are still within the 24-hour window, you can cancel and rebook at the lower price.

The two largest low-cost airlines, easyJet and Ryanair, have slightly different policies. easyJet allows cancellations within 24 hours of making the booking for a fee of £49 (or £55 if you speak to an agent). Ryanair offers a “grace period of 24 hours from the time of your original booking to correct any minor errors you may have made” free of charge.

What constitutes a “minor error”? Dates or times of the flight (though if the new one is more expensive, you must pay the fare difference), and even booking flights in the wrong direction – eg Dublin to Manchester rather than the other way around. But these airlines are the exception rather than the rule.

Hungary travel warning

Ahead of the national elections to be held in Hungary on Sunday, the 

Foreign Office has warned British travellers of possible political violence. The updated advice says: “National elections will be held on 12 April 2026. Peaceful demonstrations have sometimes turned violent. Move away from large crowds and monitor local media to help you avoid organised demonstrations.”

TRAVEL INSIDER DEALS

Get 30% off a 7-day Switzerland, France and Italy package tour

Explore Europe’s alpine highlights for less with Exoticca – from soaring peaks to scenic rail journeys across Switzerland, France and Italy. Visit Geneva, Lake Como and Milan, with flights, accommodation, breakfast and activities included. Departures available in 2026 and 2027. Learn more. 

Will the entry-exit system persuade you to travel to non-EU destinations?

When it comes to crossing the Channel, our readers favour speed and convenience – with 60 per cent opting for Eurotunnel LeShuttle over the ferry when we asked last week.

Simon says

Any recommendations for a few days in Faro and beyond, on foot and by public transport?

The capital of the Algarve is overlooked by many travellers who simply fly into Faro airport and head west along the coast to the string of sunny resorts. Aim a short way east instead and you discover a compact, friendly city with a fine waterside setting – including an attractive marina, where your hotel is located.

The core of the city is the ninth-century Cidade Velha (Old Town) contained within medieval walls. The city’s cathedral has Roman foundations, 13th century roots and a compendium of architectural styles. As you would expect of an Iberian city, there is a scattering of smaller churches, a municipal market and picturesque streets. My favourite restaurant in Faro – and indeed anywhere on the Algarve – is Chefe Branco, a seafood restaurant on Rua de Loule. You may have to queue, but it is well worth the wait for the freshly cooked catch of the day at tasty prices.

Beyond the city, take the train to Tavira, a gorgeous town that straddles a river east of the city. You might want to continue to the Spanish border at Vila Real de Santo Antonio, from where you can take a ferry across to the frontier town of Ayamonte – a typically sleepy Andalucian location. Going west, the coastal railway will take you all the way to Lagos: the scenic star of the Algarve resorts. Finally, before your flight home you should visit the Praia de Faro – the beach of Faro – which is just past the airport. This attractive strip of sand, hotels and restaurants was damaged in a recent storm but is recovering fast. You can walk from here to the airport in 20 minutes, luggage permitting.

Hikers’ guide to the Algarve

Want to ask Simon a question?

To ask your own question, get Simon’s Ask Me Anything newsletter by subscribing to Independent Premium.

‘People all over the world are watching Derry Girls and loving it’

Listen to Charlene McCrossan of Martin McCrossan City Tours – which has been introducing tourists to Derry/Londonderry since the 1990s. Charlene launched a Derry Girls tour in 2020 – starting at the spectacular Guildhall, and incorporating the Derry Girls mural and the mighty walls that wrap around the city. She told The Independent’s daily travel podcast all about the city.

Introducing Independent Trips: An adventure through Morocco

The Independent has partnered with Intrepid Travel to put together a trip that takes you from Marrakech to the Atlas Mountains and the Agafay Desert. Find out more.

Join the conversation and follow us

Download our apps:

Please do not reply directly to this email

You are currently registered to receive The Independent's Travel newsletter.

To unsubscribe from The Independent's Travel newsletter, or to manage your email preferences please click here.

This e-mail was sent by Independent Digital News and Media Ltd, 14-18 Finsbury Square, London EC2A 1AH. Registered in England and Wales with company number 07320345

Read our privacy policy and cookie policy