Isolation is not always splendid. Five years ago this week I awoke in the Heathrow Novotel, one of the strip of hotels north of the runways. I had checked in for the final night before this unremarkable property became a quarantine hotel – complete with security guards to ensure none of the guests made a break for it. I checked out on 15 February shortly before the first involuntary inmates from "red list" nations arrived. They paid £1,750 for an all-inclusive package: 10 nights' accommodation, three meals a day and two Covid tests.
For almost the rest of that miserable pandemic year, travellers arriving from countries regarded as high risk were incarcerated. The system unravelled shortly before Christmas 2021. "I've had nine walk out on me so far," a guard at the Gatwick Sofitel told me in mid-December. "They face a £10,000 fine but the police aren't interested." MPs on the Transport Select Committee later found "no evidence" that hotel quarantine provided the slightest benefit compared with self-isolation at home. What a difference five years makes. Yesterday Accor, parent company of Novotel, reported that revenue per available room – RevPAR, the key metric in the hotel industry – rose 4.2 per cent to €76 (£66). People seem much happier when they are free to travel where they wish. Anticipation is a much more positive emotion than hindsight. I look forward to testing out the new visa-free access to China on a trip to Chengdu in the west of the People's Republic next month – and hope the key local attraction, officially known as Siguniangshan Scenic Spot, is easier to enjoy than it is to pronounce.
The decision by Beijing to open up to British (and Canadian) passport holders will be transformative. Now that the barricade of red tape has been dismantled, organised cultural tours will continue in much the same way – but China will see a surge in backpackers, keen to explore a low-cost country that until this week was too tricky and expensive to consider. No hidden extras, either: on my last trip to the Chinese resort city of Qingdao, the Sea View Garden Hotel instructed guests: "Your satisfaction is the greatest praise to us, please don't give tips to our staff." I recall no sign like that along Isolation Row at Heathrow.
Latin journeys: Seek substitute US experiences south of the border Peak practice: Nepal proposes stricter rules for Everest climbers Air rights: 21 years of Europe's flawed '261' rules Extra time: Air fares fall to US venues for World Cup 2026 |
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Five-star national tourist attraction (the temple, not me) |
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| When it comes to the slopes, not all ski resorts are made equal. Read more. |
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| Holy Island is a magical place, rich with nature and history – and best enjoyed when the tide comes in. Read more. |
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| Whether they're a foodie or luxury lover, spoil the maternal figure in your life with a weekend away. Read more. |
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| Save up to £200 per booking on Thailand holidays with Virgin Atlantic. Fly to Phuket with flight + hotel packages and book by 23 February 2026 using code THAILAND. Find out more. |
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| | The best portable power stations for home and outdoor adventures |
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Essential listening: Independent travel podcasts |
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As China eases its rules for British visitors, the red tape for travellers to the UK is getting ever more tangled. From next Wednesday, 25 February, the electronic travel authorisation will be mandatory for all travellers arriving in the United Kingdom except for British and Irish citizens. For UK dual nationals who only have a passport issued by another country, this presents a problem. They are not allowed to apply for an ETA.
Up to now, the government has insisted that only a valid British passport or a "Certificate of Entitlement" costing £589 will allow a dual citizen to be admitted. The change has caused consternation for many people who happen to have UK citizenship but whose lives – and passports – are located elsewhere. They are scrabbling to acquire the required documentation. But this morning it has emerged that airlines can accept a valid foreign passport plus a UK passport that was issued anything up to 37 years ago in lieu of a current British passport.
I advise all travellers to observe all border regulations at all times. But I suspect that some of the 1.2 million UK dual nationals estimated to be resident abroad will still travel on ETAs, even though they are not supposed to apply for them. They will bet that airlines and ferry firms – the organisations with the hapless task of enforcing the new rules – will be content with proof that the passenger possesses a valid passport and apparently legitimate ETA. In a time-pressured pre-departure environment, if the computer says "yes" when presented with the traveller's foreign passport, the transport operators will not diligently go on to investigate whether that person has British citizenship by birth or descent.
I cannot envisage any passenger being told: "You can't enter the UK because you are British." A few transgressors may be identified on arrival when a UK Border Force officer chooses to examine their passport. But most people who decide to infringe the rules will probably get away with it by whizzing through the eGates. |
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Do you drink alcohol on flights? |
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As incidents of drunken air rage hand disruptive passengers lifelong airline bans, I want to know if you enjoy an alcoholic drink while flying? Is a tipple after take off part of the proceedings, or is landing bleary-eyed and fuzzy-headed just not worth the pain? Vote using the buttons above. Cyprus just edged it in last week's winter sun showdown, claiming 52 per cent of the vote and narrowly beating Tenerife. It seems when it comes to escaping Britain's bleak 2026 weather, readers are leaning – if only slightly – towards Cyprus' sunnier shores. |
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Book international train travel with Eurostar from London to Continental Europe for May, and you can find the lowest fare of £78 return available on a wide range of days. To Paris: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday are the easiest days, but Mondays and Saturdays also have some availability.
Brussels and Lille are available for Thursday/Friday to Sunday/Monday trips for £78 return on most weekends in May. Amsterdam and Rotterdam (below) have patchier dates, but you could always book a one-way ticket out for £51 and return on easyJet from Amsterdam to Gatwick for £69 on most dates in May. |
Cuba remains on the Foreign Office no-go list due to "severe and worsening disruption to essential infrastructure, persistent power outages across the country and fuel shortages". Last night the FCDO travel advice urged: "If you are currently in Cuba, carefully consider if your presence is essential. Take precautions by conserving fuel, water, food and mobile phone charge, and be prepared for significant disruption."
The island's airports have largely run out of fuel due to US sanctions, after Donald Trump declared Cuba "an unusual and extraordinary threat" to national security. Most longhaul flights have been cancelled. According to the latest data on Flightradar24, the only current link between Havana and Europe is on Air China from the Cuban capital to Madrid – on a flight that continues to Beijing.
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Have you been to Lourdes in France? |
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Yes, and I hope you will travel to this fascinating town in southwest France. The vast majority of the five million or so annual visitors go there because it is a shrine of global importance for the Catholic church. In 1858, a miller's daughter named Bernadette Soubirous claimed the Virgin Mary appeared to her on multiple occasions in a grotto carved by the river through the town, the Gave de Pau. Within four years, the Vatican had confirmed the authenticity of the apparitions. Waters from a spring to which Bernadette was directed by the Virgin Mary are held to be responsible for dozens of miracle cures. You can visit the Massabielle Grotto, where the apparitions took place, and the three basilicas. Make time to watch one of the processions of pilgrims – a sight that you are likely to find deeply moving, whatever your beliefs. You may find the rampant commercialism in the name of faith rather less appealing.
In and around Lourdes there is much of interest unrelated to religion. Perched above the town is a medieval castle, the Chateau-Fort. It offers excellent views across the valley – and is also the home of the Pyrenean Museum. Established in 1925, this collection documents the philosophy of Pyreneanism, the French interpretation of the Romantic movement. Conveniently, Lourdes is astride the GR101 long-distance footpath, which meanders north through gentle countryside or, more excitingly, south into the Pyrenees.
For anyone interested in aviation, Tarbes-Lourdes airport is fascinating: not because it is conveniently served by Ryanair from London Stansted, but due to its status as the leading aircraft junkyard for Europe. The vast facility is used by airlines and leasing companies for storing planes for which there is currently no apparent market. You can wander across the meadows fringing the perimeter and see Airbuses and Boeings looking forlorn and beyond their fly-by date. |
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| Stay in Manchester city centre for less at the highly rated Midland Hotel. Within easy reach of the top attractions, this deal includes breakfast and access to the hotel's pool and spa. Learn more. |
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| Get up to £150 onboard credit on selected Fred Olsen sailings. See the Northern Lights, sun-kissed Madeira, and more. Various dates, departures and durations available. Learn more. |
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| Enjoy a break from just £54 per night at selected Village Hotels when you book Thursday-Sunday stays until 6 April 2026. Choose from top locations across the UK. Learn more. |
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| Stay entertained and hands-free on your adventures with this handy airplane phone holder – now under £10 at Amazon. |
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| Stock up on sustainable staples for your next trip and pocket savings at Asket. |
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.jpeg?quality=75&width=1368&crop=3%3A2%2Csmart&trim=0%2C14%2C0%2C14&auto=webp "Ski slope")
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