High fares, less choice: the new normal?

"I've never seen so many aircraft over Afghanistan as I have in the past few weeks." So said the airline captain I talked to yesterday. He was about to fly to India (where he landed safely earlier this morning). With so much of the skies closed to commercial aviation, a country previously regarded as an airspace pariah is now the transit nation of choice for pilots heading for south Asia.

A month ago, the airline world looked very different. Until the early hours of 28 February, a steady stream of planes trekked across Iran between the Gulf and the UK. The Middle East superhighway was the natural choice from leading British airports to Asia and beyond. More than half the passengers between the UK and Australia used Emirates, Etihad or Qatar Airways via Dubai, Abu Dhabi Doha, respectively. Those three airports are now on the Foreign Office no-go list – and are operating a fraction of their planned schedules.

Meanwhile their rivals prosper by swerving the Gulf. On Qantas, a one-way trip from London to Perth (pictured below) in economy is selling for almost £2,000 early next month. Such fares help to explain why Qantas passengers on long domestic routes in Australia are crammed into Boeing 737s. Where have those comfortable, wide-bodied Airbus A330 jets gone? On Pacific routes, that's where, to free up Boeing 787s. Those ultra-long-range jets are needed for the really lucrative part of the Qantas network: between Australia and Europe.

Yesterday the Australian carrier revealed plans to increase capacity to and from Europe by 400 seats a day, largely by boosting flights from Paris to Sydney and Rome to Perth. For a trip to Australia you might consider a no-frills hop to the French or Italian capitals – thereby also dodging the sky-high air passenger duty of £106 that takes effect on ultra-long-haul journeys from Wednesday.

The "Middle East 3" (Emirates, Etihad and Qatar Airways) are collectively losing tens of millions of pounds each day. Even the few giant planes they are operating from Heathrow, Gatwick and Manchester to the Gulf are half empty, I understand. The repercussions for the local tourism industry of vanished visitors go even deeper. While Iranian drones and missiles still pose a threat to the UAE and Qatar, those states will remain off-limits to many travellers. But the ME3 are desperate to return at scale. In the time-honoured fashion they will cut prices as low as necessary to fill the planes. That £2,000 one-way economy fare to Australia is not about to normalise.

Most of our horizons are much closer – and the prospects for summer are far from bleak. While the spot price of aviation fuel is soaring, competition is intensifying. Just when you thought there was no room for any more airlines between Gatwick and the Med, Jet2 has launched a big new programme from Sussex to the sun. "Ultimately, people still want to travel," chief executive Steve Heapy told me. "They want a break, especially given the current mood and weather in the UK. We're ready to meet that demand." 

Simon's must reads

Get inspired

7 under the radar Med destinations for Easter

Our experts share their favourite lesser-known destinations for a step into spring.

A literary-inspired stay in Bronte country

Lucy McGuire takes a trip to Yorkshire to learn more about the places that nurtured the literary family.

These are the best accessible hotels in the UK

From North Yorkshire to the Snowdonia National Park, our expert picks her favourite accessible hotel rooms.

Take out an Independent Premium subscription and get a travel bonus, joining the elite whose questions go straight to the top of my in-tray and get answered each week in our special Premium Ask Me Anything newsletter.

Join now with our introductory offer: just £1 for 6 months

THE DISPATCH

Africa, Asia and Europe: new flight links

Put your clocks forward on Sunday – and refocus on new destinations. The last weekend of March is when the official summer season begins for the airlines, and it is traditionally a time when new routes are launched. The crop this year is bounteous, even though Air Arabia from Gatwick to Sharjah in the UAE has been put back to June.

Morocco gets the most enticing additions on Sunday. Ryanair starts flying from both Birmingham and Newcastle to Marrakech, while Royal Air Maroc launches a brand new destination from Gatwick: Tetouan. It will make access to the Rif Mountains and the colourful and enchanting city of Chefchaouen much easier. Tetouan is also an addition to the meagre list of International Airports You Can Walk From, currently headed by Gibraltar, Nice and Pisa.

Long haul, the star choice is Virgin Atlantic from London Heathrow to Seoul – bringing much-needed competition between the UK and South Korea. Seoul combines startling modern architecture with tranquil temples and plenty of open space, plus energetic nightlife. Good-value accommodation abounds, even in the centre; and finding great food in the Korean capital is simple.

Yet the flight timings are gruelling, due to the avoidance of Russia and war-torn locations from Ukraine to the UAE. The inbound leg, taking over 14 hours, is the longest Virgin route. Air China via Beijing is almost as quick, despite the change of planes: airlines from the People's Republic are allowed to fly over Siberia between Asia and the UK, dramatically cutting flight times.

There are also a couple of "but surely that can't be a new link?" candidates starting on Sunday. First  ITA, successor to Alitalia, from Heathrow to Rome – restoring a route lost when slots were sold off. Next, Air France from Gatwick to Paris CDG. Some of the expected passengers on the 191-mile hop will transfer worldwide at the French hub; others may be dodging the high prices on Eurostar trains. The lowest rail fare from London to Paris on Monday is £228 one way; flying saves almost £100.

TRAVEL BEST BUYS

Ready for your next adventure? Whether it's a quick city break, an action-packed holiday, or a long-haul journey, the right luggage can make a big difference. I've curated the best luggage brands to suit every style, budget, and travel plan.

For the intrepid explorer, The North Face offers durable, adventure-ready backpacks and travel bags that can withstand rugged trips. Families can rely on Samsonite for sturdy, spacious suitcases and for premium picks, Briggs and Riley deliver luggage with smart features that last for years. And for travellers on a tighter budget, these deals at It Luggage offer affordable options without compromising on style or functionality.

Flying light? This Ryanair-friendly rolltop backpack slips easily under the plane seat and is currently reduced to under £30. And don't forget Amazon, which has a wide selection of luggage options for budget flights at wallet-friendly prices.

INSIDER TIPS

Renew your passport early to swerve price rise?

The fee for a UK passport will rise by another 8 per cent on 8 April, from £94.50 to £102. It takes the cumulative hike in the past three years to over one-third. The price rose 9 per cent in February 2023, with further 7 per cent jumps in each of the last two years. Consider renewing early at the existing price: if your current passport is due to expire (or reach its 10th birthday, rendering it ineligible for the European Union) within the next nine months, you will save by renewing now.

Baltic boost for rail in Lithuania

Starting on 29 March, Lithuania's two biggest cities – Kaunus and the capital, Vilnius – will be connected by nonstop trains taking less than an hour. Rail firm LTG Link will run Ekspresas trains on the 60-mile link, for a fare of €6 to €12 depending on demand.

You can fly to Kaunus on Ryanair from Luton, Stansted, Bristol, Liverpool and Edinburgh, and on Wizz Air from Luton. To Vilnius, LOT of Poland flies in from London City, Wizz Air from Luton and Ryanair from Stansted.

GET 10% OFF 2027 AND 2028 HOLIDAYS AT RIVIERA TRAVEL

Riviera Travel's 2027 and 2028 holidays are now open for discovery. Save 10% off all 2027 and 2028 holidays. No exceptions. Book now.

TRAVEL INSIDER DEALS

Up to 51% off a 4* Lake District escape for two

Unwind in Watermillock, on the shore of Ullswater, at the award-winning Macdonald Leeming House Hotel. Stay in a deluxe room with views, including breakfast and late checkout. Upgrade your experience with a three-course meal and bubbles. Learn more. 

Would you rather visit the French Riviera or Spain's Costa del Sol this April?

In last week's poll, 60 per cent of you said you'd rather book early than gamble on a last-minute deal – choosing certainty over the risk of rising prices amid ongoing disruption.

Simon says

We are off to Canada for two weeks: landing in Montreal, renting a car and heading to Nova Scotia to see friends before returning. Any particular recommendations?

Start at Quebec City, northeast of Montreal along the St Lawrence River: the most beautiful city in Canada. In contrast to the scenic centre, the vast Hotel Le Concorde, a Brutalist landmark to the west of the city, should be on your itinerary. Then take the inland route from Quebec City to the city of Saguenay, a place of haunting industrial archaeology that testifies to its 19th-century role as the "Chicago of the North". A spectacular fjord carries the Saguenay River to Tadoussac, where it meets the St Lawrence. Between May and October, you can go whale-watching here. Stay at the Hotel Tadoussac in this riverside resort, then cross by ferry from Les Escoumins to Trois-Pistoles on the opposite shore.

Set the controls for the Gaspé Peninsula: a tongue of land extending beautifully into the Atlantic, offering a great coastal drive as well as manageable hikes – including one that reaches Quebec's own version of Land's End. Complete the loop to Pointe-à-la-Croix, then make your way through New Brunswick. Pausing at Hopewell Rocks for the extraordinary experience of walking on the ocean floor due to the astonishing tidal range of the Bay of Fundy. Returning from Nova Scotia, take the ferry from Digby to Saint John, back in New Brunswick. Cut through the US state of Maine (check your vehicle insurance first) to serene southern Quebec. Spend your last couple of days in Montreal, including a fabulous final meal (if you eat meat): a smoked beef sandwich at Schwartz's Deli, a fixture at 3895 St Laurent Boulevard since 1928.

Want to ask Simon a question?

To ask your own question, get Simon's Ask Me Anything newsletter by subscribing to Independent Premium.

Mind the doors, and the escalators, and other passengers

Govia Thameslink Railway, which runs Gatwick Express, Southern, Great Northern as well as Thameslink, has brought out a safety video intended to reduce the number of injuries – currently running at 16 a week – sustained by passengers at its stations. Writer and comedian Diane Morgan presents it.

Introducing Independent Trips: An adventure through Morocco

The Independent has partnered with Intrepid Travel to put together a trip that takes you from Marrakech to the Atlas Mountains and the Agafay Desert. Find out more.

Join the conversation and follow us

Download our apps:

Please do not reply directly to this email

You are currently registered to receive The Independent's Travel newsletter.

To unsubscribe from The Independent's Travel newsletter, or to manage your email preferences please click here.

This e-mail was sent by Independent Digital News and Media Ltd, 14-18 Finsbury Square, London EC2A 1AH. Registered in England and Wales with company number 07320345

Read our privacy policy and cookie policy