Reinvention rewards resorts
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The tide started going out on great British seaside holidays in the 1970s, when the falling cost of package holidays to Spain and beyond met rising incomes. Bluntly, Benidorm offered sunnier shores than Bournemouth and Bridlington. Yet, some British seaside resorts are proving adept at reversing the tide with innovation and investment. St Ives showed the way 33 summers ago, when the Tate’s Cornish outpost opened – stretching the season right around the year. At the other end of the South Coast, Folkestone has been transformed from a declining port and resort into a thriving artistic community and weekend break destination; superfast trains from London have helped.
As my sunshine survey demonstrates, southern England has a distinct advantage over the rest of Britain. But reinvention is shared along the coasts. At Portmeiron in North Wales, Clough Williams-Ellis saw the potential for a “home for fallen buildings” – rescued from Mediterranean locations to decorate the Dwyryd Estuary. Around at Morecambe, the handsome 1930s Midland Hotel will soon have as a neighbour the Eden Project North – telling the natural story of the Bay. Even as far north as Nairn on the Moray Firth, the Strathnairn Beach Cafe is now open for the summer. Charlie Chaplin was a regular visitor in the 1950s and 60s. Even though nearby Inverness has less sun than any other UK city, with a fine beach and a fascinating hinterland, Nairn deserves a visit from you this summer.
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Saltdean Lido, four miles east of Brighton, should have disappeared years ago – replaced by a block of flats. But community action has instead seen this previously derelict 1930s masterpiece restored to its Art Deco glory. Make it part of your next trip to Brighton – just minutes away by frequent buses.
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Acting Assistant Travel Editor
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Acting Assistant Travel Editor
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Nearly 11 years ago, Margate’s 1920s amusement park Dreamland reopened following a major renovation project. It was to be the headline act of the Kent coastal town’s regeneration.
And with the promise of a party, my friends and I caught a train down from London, downed bags and got in the seaside spirit. We stopped by the Shell Grotto, sat on the promenade, ate oysters and rode the park’s rollercoaster (yes, it was a stomach-churning order of events) before bedding down in a three-bunk carpeted room, with a communal shower in the corner.
It was around this time that the town earned itself the nickname of “Shoreditch-on-Sea”. The area has long since been drawing those from London and beyond with its creative credentials, in part thanks to the Turner Contemporary and destination restaurants including Sargasso.
For my part, I’ve returned almost annually – though my choice of accommodation has been firmly upgraded.
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Margate House’s suites have views over the Victorian Dalby Square (Margate House)
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Most recently, I stayed at Margate House in Cliftonville, which is easily my favourite hotel in the town. Opposite the guest house is conservation area, Dalby Square, which acts as a reminder of the area’s status as a Victorian seaside resort. The nine-bed townhouse has been beautifully restored, drenched in pinks and maroons with an open fire, speakeasy-style bar and a recently opened restaurant, Willy’s, which serves playful twists on comfort food.
It’s not just Margate that continues to reel me with its impressive hotels. Further south in Deal, there’s The Rose, a foodie mecca with rooms, located on the historic high street. A short 10-minute drive inland, Updown Farmhouse is a converted 17th-century country house with a bucolic garden, its own pool, and – as of recently – a stylish, low-lit bar.
Beyond Kent, the rest of the British coast is calling. Travel writer Joanna Whitehead recently reviewed chic Saltmoore, a serene spa hotel just outside of Whitby, which is perfect for a gentle summer getaway. And Dominique Afacan reported on the renewed interest in Abersoch, with its buzzing restaurants and family-friendly activities.
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Fancy becoming a detective for the night? Enjoy a thrilling murder mystery escape for two, including a three-course themed dinner, live entertainment, and a full breakfast the following morning.
Choose from 100 hotels nationwide and 60 captivating shows. Learn more.
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Unwind on the seafront at the highly-rated Cumberland Hotel and enjoy breakfast, a three-course dinner and a bottle of prosecco.
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On-the-gate tickets can cost about £68, so booking ahead can save you more than £30 per ticket, compared with on-the-day prices.
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A GLOBAL DATA PLAN FOR FREQUENT TRAVELLERS
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Stay connected while travelling with Holafly plans – easy, flexible international mobile data with no physical SIM card required.
Get 5% off any plan and destination now.
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Harriet Brewis went on the perfect Tuscan road trip, stopping in beautiful farmhouses along the way – despite uncooperative weather.
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Layla Nicholson visited obscure Lublin in Poland and discovered an affordable city that is now one of her favourites.
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Having visited many European cities alone, Lydia Swinscoe shares her top picks for culture, great food and intriguing neighbourhoods.
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I’ll come straight out with it: I’m a travel writer, and I’m obsessed with wheeled luggage. That obsession comes from years of dragging heavy, poorly designed bags around the world, which once left me with a painful strain in my shoulder. Since then, I’ve made it my mission to find luggage that reduces the strain on your back and shoulders.
Which is why I’ve tested the best backpacks with wheels. They combine the flexibility of a rucksack with the ease of rolling luggage, making them ideal for all kinds of trips. My top pick is this Osprey wheeled backpack, but in my full article you’ll find plenty of other reliable options.
When it comes to the small extras that make travelling more comfortable, there are lots of clever accessories worth packing. The bestselling £20 Loop quiet 2 earplugs are reusable and offer excellent noise reduction, helping you catch some sleep on your flight. One of the team’s favourite Anker power banks is also currently reduced to under £30 and will keep your phone and other devices charged during long days of exploring.
Finally, if you tend to struggle with the heat on holiday, or even during a warm summer at home, our tech expert highly rates Sony’s wearable cooling system. Worn around the neck, it automatically adjusts to the temperature to help keep you comfortably cool. Or, if you’re after a budget-friendly alternative, this £34 neck fan is a popular option.
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.jpg?quality=75&width=1368&crop=3%3A2%2Csmart&trim=0%2C584%2C0%2C364&auto=webp "Precise Tale Poggio Alla Sala sits in rolling Tuscan countryside Precise Tale (Poggio Alla Sala)")
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