Fat is back – and it's not just delicious, it's actually good for you. The full-fat revival isn't some greasy nostalgia trip; it's rooted in a growing body of science and a backlash against the low-fat, high-sugar messaging of the past few decades. Lucas Oakeley's dive into fat's redemption arc unpicks the myth that fat makes you fat, and reveals how chefs, nutritionists and skincare influencers alike are reclaiming it. Whole milk and butter are no longer guilty pleasures but smart choices, rich in nutrients and free from the additives often found in "lite" alternatives. At restaurants like HOLM and manteca, fat is celebrated, not hidden – emulsifying sauces, enriching ragus, forming the crackling crown on a slow-roasted pork belly. And with new-wave brands like GOOD PHATS bottling beef tallow and grass-fed ghee like they're cold-pressed juices, it's clear the pendulum has swung. Forget everything the 90s taught you – fat isn't the enemy. It's flavour, it's fuel and, in the right form, it might just be the healthiest thing on your plate.
Still, if you'd rather your dinner not come with a lipid manifesto, Jesse Jenkins has your number. The LA-born chef and ADIP founder is flying the flag for vegetable-forward cooking, and his debut book makes a solid case for why greens can be just as indulgent as gristle. His smashed cucumber caesar is crunchy and cool with all the umami punch of its romaine cousin, while the miso-glazed courgettes bring aubergine's confit drama without the oil bath. Even his kimchi puttanesca – an unholy alliance of capers, anchovies, tuna and spicy fermented cabbage – somehow works. These are not recipes for ascetics. They're rich, sharp and full of intent. Vegetables, it turns out, are just as good at carrying flavour – you just have to let them.
Or fire up the barbecue and let Eran Tibi show you how to turn garden-party fodder into sun-drenched Middle Eastern splendour. His recipes are the sort that travel easily from a balmy Friday night to a hungover Saturday lunch: smoky, punchy cabbage in romesco, spatchcock poussin dripping in chilli and salsa, hummus so good it makes you question every supermarket pot you've ever bought. Tibi doesn't do polite food. He does party food – food that gathers, spills, talks too loudly and smells like cumin and heat. It's exactly what the season demands.
Then again, there's something comforting in the chaos, especially when it comes from George Egg – the Snack Hacker himself. A man who turned fish fingers into spaghetti and KFC into ramen, Egg is comedy's answer to Ottolenghi, if Ottolenghi were raised on Gregg's and ironic nostalgia. His new cookbook is as much a love letter to childhood cravings as it is a collection of genuinely inventive recipes. Twiglet brownies? Fishy Big Macs with caviar burger sauce? Baked bean dal inspired by Romesh Ranganathan's student years? It's all here, and somehow it all… works.
If all that leaves you yearning for something a little more serious – and with a side of wine pairing – we've got you. I head to opposite ends of the tasting menu spectrum in my latest column, comparing the rural fantasy of Aulis with the unfussy soul of Cardiff's Gorse. One is a £500 Zone 1 illusion that conjures Cumbrian hedgerows in every bite; the other, a 22-seater in an ex-coffee shop serving martinis laced with laverbread and desserts that flirt with flummery. Both have a star. Both deserve it. But it's the contrast that's most telling: fine dining, it turns out, doesn't have to mean tweezers, theatrics or 17 kinds of asparagus. Sometimes it's a beetroot that looks like art. Sometimes it's mutton done right. And sometimes, just sometimes, it's the feeling that the kitchen trusts you enough to taste the place – and that you can trust them right back.
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Everything you know about fat is wrong; here's why it's back on the smartest restaurant menus |
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From beef tallow skincare to Michelin-starred pig skin ragu, Lucas Oakeley explores how fat went from dietary villain to culinary hero – and why chefs and nutritionists say it's time to stop fearing it |
Fat. It's a loaded word. If you're over the age of 18, you've likely seen the pendulum swing back and forth from the poles of "fat is good for you" and "fat is bad for you" like an indecisive weather vane.
Guidance changes so frequently that it's challenging to determine the consensus. Some studies suggest low-carb diets, rich in unsaturated fats, can lead to reduced symptoms of depression, while others claim a diet like that comes with some potentially significant cardiovascular risks, which aren't going to be much help to your mental health.
Fat is indisputably "in" right now, with retailers like Waitrose reporting earlier this year that they've seen an increased demand for whole foods with sales of full-fat yoghurt and whole milk on the rise. More people than ever appear to be sceptical of synthetic ingredients and products with an unwieldy number of ingredients. And they're not simply quacks for doing so.
"Many low-fat products are highly processed and compensate for reduced fat with added sugars and refined carbohydrates, which can increase cravings, lead to blood sugar issues and increase the risk of metabolic diseases," Natalie Louise Burrows, clinic director of Integral Wellness and a registered nutritional therapist, says. "Whole foods with natural fats are generally healthier choices than processed, low-fat alternatives.
"Alternatively, whole foods where the fat has been reduced but not replaced (such as certain yoghurts) can be a great choice. Fat is essential for satiety, nutrient absorption and overall health. There is no need to avoid it entirely, and actually, I'd strongly advise against it."
Read the full article here
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| This playful, personality‑driven cookbook from comedian‑chef George Egg delivers over 90 ingenious, rule‑bending recipes that turn everyday snacks into flavour fireworks. Part comedy, part culinary adventure, it's packed with nostalgic memories, bold hacks – from Twiglet brownies to fish‑finger spaghetti – and beautiful illustrations by his son, making cooking both fun and fearless. |
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